Given the difficulties in recognizing intolerant skin in the first place, it would seem fairly reasonable that treating the problem might prove equally daunting. In many instances it is a formidable challenge for both doctor and patient. Nevertheless, there are some broad com-monsense recommendations that can be followed by those who are troubled with either sensitive skin or just sensitive eyelids.
Statistically, a number of common ingredients have been found to be particular troublemakers. If you believe you have intolerant skin, you would be wise to take great care in choosing products that contain them. Since researchers have determined that fragrances and sunscreen lotions together account for most cases of cosmetic-related itching, whenever possible you should look for fragrance-free products. It has also been determined that about 7 percent of the adult population experiences some form of adverse reaction to the common sunscreen ingredient PABA, and therefore you should select one of the PABA-free (and fragrance-free) sunscreens currently marketed (such as Oil of Olay Daily UVA Protectant).
You can also significantly reduce your need for sunscreens by rearranging your daily schedule and selecting proper outdoor attire to minimize sun exposure. For example, you might plan to stay out of the sun between the high-intensity hours of 10:00 A.M. to 3:00 P.M. and instead schedule your tennis or swimming before or after those times. You can also protect yourself by wearing special lightweight ultraviolet ray-shielding clothing (such as Solumbra, Solar Protective Factory, and Frogskin) that claims to yield protection equivalent to a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher.
Other common ingredients capable of producing stinging and itching that are found in many different types of cosmetics should also be avoided if possible. These include benzoic acid, bronopol, cinnamic acid, Dowicil 200, formaldehyde, lactic acid, nonionic emulsifiers, propylene glycol, quaternary ammonium compounds, sodium lauryl sulfate, sorbic acid, and urea. A quick check of any product label will tell you if any of these are ingredients, and you can then look for alternatives.
If your problem is eyelid sensitivity, you may have a particularly difficult time finding a mascara that you can tolerate. Water-based mascaras that contain soaps and emulsifiers, such as sodium borate and ammonium stearate, can be especially problematic. If you have been having trouble with this kind, you might try a waterproof mascara. And if you still have problems, you may be able to use a cake mascara, although these are difficult to find nowadays.
Eye shadows, eyeliners, and artificial eyelashes can also cause problems for those with sensitive skin. Since they can be especially irritating, you should avoid frosted, pearlized, shiny, and glittery eye shadows, which usually contain fish scale fragments, bismuth oxychloride, mica, or ground metal particles. Look instead for those that give a matte or dull finish. And because their fluid bases tend to be less irritating, powdered eye shadows are preferable to the liquid or automatic pencil varieties. For the same reason, pencil and cake eyeliners are preferable to liquid ones. Lastly, the methacrylate-based (Krazy Glue-like) adhe-sives that are used to affix artificial lashes can aggravate sensitive eyelids and should be avoided entirely.
Interestingly, some researchers have suggested that the stinging effect of irritants in cosmetics may be countered by including so-called antiirritant ingredients in the products. At least in theory, antiirritants may work by combining directly with the irritants to neutralize them, blocking the specific sites where the irritants bind, or simply acting as physical barriers to prevent contact between the irritants and the skin. Antiirritants currently available include Polysorbate 20, aloe vera gel, Germall 115, imidazolidinyl urea, allan-toin, and imidazolidine amphoteric surfactants (the cleansers used in the "no tears" shampoos). The jury is not yet in on the overall value of these agents as antiirritants.
If you complain of sensitivity on areas other than just your eyelids or face, you should be careful to choose gentle cleansers designed for use on the whole body (such as Oil of Olay Sensitive Skin Bar) and also hypoallergenic moisturizers for these areas. In addition, take quick showers, two to three minutes at most, to avoid overdrying and compounding the irritation problem. If you prefer baths to showers, add a little bath oil (such as Alpha Keri) to the water and do not use bubble bath products since they tend to be quite drying. And finally, use mild enzyme-free, dye-free, and perfume-free laundry detergents for your clothes, such as Cheerfree or Ivory Snow.
